The aBlogtoWatch team has just returned from the 2014 edition of the
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie watch trade show in Geneva -
otherwise known as the SIHH. If you aren't already aware of what this
show is about; it is one of a few major watch trade events each year
where new products are debuted. SIHH is operated by the Richemont Group
and a few other participating brands. There are about 16 brands that
show there. The other major Swiss watch trade show is Baselworld that
happens later in the year around March - and a lot more brands present
there. SIHH is an important event and helps us understand what some of
the major luxury brands are doing, and what their focus will be for this
year and beyond.
While we saw and photographed many new and amazing watches, there are
a few that stood out as the top timepieces. These are watches that left
the biggest impression on us, or that we feel are going to be
successful sellers this year and beyond. A list of all the best watches
would easily take up more than 10 spaces, but here are some that you
should certainly know about.
It is also important to discuss overall themes and trends at the
show. My colleagues in the fashion world especially are keen to know
this information so I will try to break it down. From a business
standpoint the brands are very much focusing on replicating what is
already working. Aside from a few noteworthy brands such as
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey, and A. Lange &
Sohne, there is very little in the range of outrageous timepieces this
year meant to act as "media bait." What does that mean? Well, I used the
term "media bait" to refer to wildly designed or priced timepieces
meant to attract media and consumer attention. They are highly
engineered and low production, often focusing on interesting movements
and bold presentations. It used to be that most all brands had a few of
these almost "concept style" watches each year that offered a lot of
talking points and helped show what the brand was all about. This was
likely a tactic taken from the automotive world, which also has ceased
as much focus on concept vehicles.
Instead, brands continue to consolidate their collections and
gradually release models as line extensions or updates to existing
pieces. These timepieces focus on maximum "retail-ability" but aren't
always the most exciting for brand voyeurs. Nevertheless, there is
plenty to discuss based on what we saw at SIHH 2014, and over the next
few months aBlogtoWatch will gradually present you with a number of
hands-on looks at the most interesting and beautiful watches of the
show.
Before discussing our top 10 most interesting watches from SIHH 2014,
I'd like to note that the existence of the new Hong Kong-based show
called "Watches & Wonders" is forcing brands to split their new
releases between two shows. Watches & Wonders debuted in 2013 and is
another Richemont-produced trade show meant to focus on the Asian
markets. Brands have indicated that they are going to share new releases
between SIHH and Watch & Wonders (that will happen again 2014 in
September) - so that is important to know.
Myself, and aBlogtoWatch Editor, James Lamdin, who also attended SIHH
2014, will each share five of our top timepieces from the show. These
are our top watches of the show in no particular order. You can see the
article we wrote about a watch by clicking on the titles:
For 2014, IWC
revamped and re-launched an entire new collection of their historically
significant Aquatimer diving watch line. A perennial favorite amongst
IWC collectors and dive watch enthusiasts in general, no one would argue
that the current collection is getting a little long in the tooth
(available since 2009), and was primed and ready for a major overhaul.
The new collection spans the range from the "base" 42mm Aquatimer
Automatic Diver to the Deep Three and Perpetual Calendar Digital Date
Month highest-end models. The Aquatimer for 2014 also includes a new
collection of chronographs, as well as the requisite Galapagos and
Cousteau Limited Editions.
The whole lot is spectacular, but the "base" model automatic version
gets the nod for the best in show. With a nod to historical models, the
sensibly sized diver gets treated to a new steel bezel with an
internally rotating dive calculation ring, which is also now operable by
rotating the bezel in both directions – IWC calls it "Safe Dive." Also
improved over the previous generation is the strap system, which now has
a quick release system that is much more appropriately suited for
changing straps. My biggest complaint on the last generation was how
poorly it wore on dry land. With the revised lugs and strap removal
system, this is no longer an issue.
There is little doubt that this new generation of Aquatimers will be
tremendously successful for IWC, and for good reason. And this, the most
simple and straightforward of the collection, is a hands-down winner. Priced from $5,750~James Lamdin
When we wrote our hands-on post about the Cartier Calibre Diver, we
mentioned the clear irony of a Cartier watch meant for diving. When we
think about Cartier we tend to think about timeless watches on stately
ladies, classic men's dress watches, and certainly not tools for
underwater sport. Nevertheless, Cartier took their newer Calibre
collection timepiece and turned it into a legit ISO certified 300 meter
diving watch. While it sounds odd on paper, we love the resulting
product.
At 42mm wide the Calibre Diver is available in a steel, two-tone, or
full 18k rose gold case. Thankfully, no diamond-decorated models are
available (yet). The case has a rotating diver's bezel that uses a
durable DLC black coating which gives it just a little bit of "Cartier
shine." Cartier didn't do much to the dial of the Diver over the normal
Calibre - but the lines are a bit bolder.
Is there room in your collection for a refined dive watch that
whispers in your ear with a Cousteau-like French accent? Maybe. If you
find yourself split between wanting to show a little status but also
wanting to stay causal with a sport watch, the Calibre Diver is a
particularly satisfying addition to a range of high-end dive watches
with in-house made movements such as the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain
50 Fathoms. Priced starting from $8,200. ~Ariel Adams
Speaking of ultra-high end unattainable timepiece, there is always Greubel Forsey
to tease and tempt us. For 2014, Greubel Forsey has created one of a
very small number of perpetual calendar complications that can be
adjusted both forward and backwards in time. For as complicated as we
know Greubel Forsey timepieces to be, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
QP a Equation is wonderfully simple in its operation.
It works using a simple principle: when in "QP" mode you turn the
crown forward in one direction to set the date forward, and the other
direction to set it backwards. There are no individual pushers for each
of the indications, and when you set the calendar the month, day, and
date all move in tandem. Hands-on it is the most viscerally pleasing QP
watch to operate and from a legibility perspective it is hard to beat.
Then again, it does cost rather north of half-a-million dollars for
the privilege. The distinctive Greubel Forsey design houses an included
tourbillon, as well as what many people argue is the most impressive
movement finishing on the planet. Priced at 670,000 Swiss Francs. ~Ariel Adams
A big theme this year at SIHH was the downsizing of popular watches –
not in terms of production, but also in case size. The iconic Audemars
Piguet Royal Oak Offshore may be the most notable example of this
slimming trend, as the brand just launched a new collection of the ROO
in its original size – 42mm.
By no means a small watch, the new 2014 line of Offshores carries all
the signature cues of the line – thick case made with high-end
materials (including rose gold and ceramics), octagonal bezel, Mega
Tapisserie dial, and integrated bracelet/strap design. New for 2014, are
the addition of a ceramic crown and pushers, as well as a sapphire
display back, long clamored for by collectors.
While the "standard" size 44mm Royal Oak Offshores aren't going
anywhere, this new collection of 42mm models represents and important
shift in thinking from the original name in luxury sports watches, and
is no doubt one of the most significant unveilings of the year. And it's
pretty darn cool looking, too. Priced from $25,600. ~James Lamdin
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