While we saw and photographed many new and amazing watches, there are
a few that stood out as the top timepieces. These are watches that left
the biggest impression on us, or that we feel are going to be
successful sellers this year and beyond. A list of all the best watches
would easily take up more than 10 spaces, but here are some that you
should certainly know about.
It is also important to discuss overall themes and trends at the
show. My colleagues in the fashion world especially are keen to know
this information so I will try to break it down. From a business
standpoint the brands are very much focusing on replicating what is
already working. Aside from a few noteworthy brands such as
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey, and A. Lange &
Sohne, there is very little in the range of outrageous timepieces this
year meant to act as "media bait." What does that mean? Well, I used the
term "media bait" to refer to wildly designed or priced timepieces
meant to attract media and consumer attention. They are highly
engineered and low production, often focusing on interesting movements
and bold presentations. It used to be that most all brands had a few of
these almost "concept style" watches each year that offered a lot of
talking points and helped show what the brand was all about. This was
likely a tactic taken from the automotive world, which also has ceased
as much focus on concept vehicles.
Instead, brands continue to consolidate their collections and
gradually release models as line extensions or updates to existing
pieces. These timepieces focus on maximum "retail-ability" but aren't
always the most exciting for brand voyeurs. Nevertheless, there is
plenty to discuss based on what we saw at SIHH 2014, and over the next
few months aBlogtoWatch will gradually present you with a number of
hands-on looks at the most interesting and beautiful watches of the
show.
Before discussing our top 10 most interesting watches from SIHH 2014,
I'd like to note that the existence of the new Hong Kong-based show
called "Watches & Wonders" is forcing brands to split their new
releases between two shows. Watches & Wonders debuted in 2013 and is
another Richemont-produced trade show meant to focus on the Asian
markets. Brands have indicated that they are going to share new releases
between SIHH and Watch & Wonders (that will happen again 2014 in
September) - so that is important to know.
Myself, and aBlogtoWatch Editor, James Lamdin, who also attended SIHH
2014, will each share five of our top timepieces from the show. These
are our top watches of the show in no particular order. You can see the
article we wrote about a watch by clicking on the titles:
The whole lot is spectacular, but the "base" model automatic version
gets the nod for the best in show. With a nod to historical models, the
sensibly sized diver gets treated to a new steel bezel with an
internally rotating dive calculation ring, which is also now operable by
rotating the bezel in both directions – IWC calls it "Safe Dive." Also
improved over the previous generation is the strap system, which now has
a quick release system that is much more appropriately suited for
changing straps. My biggest complaint on the last generation was how
poorly it wore on dry land. With the revised lugs and strap removal
system, this is no longer an issue.
There is little doubt that this new generation of Aquatimers will be
tremendously successful for IWC, and for good reason. And this, the most
simple and straightforward of the collection, is a hands-down winner. Priced from $5,750~James Lamdin
At 42mm wide the Calibre Diver is available in a steel, two-tone, or
full 18k rose gold case. Thankfully, no diamond-decorated models are
available (yet). The case has a rotating diver's bezel that uses a
durable DLC black coating which gives it just a little bit of "Cartier
shine." Cartier didn't do much to the dial of the Diver over the normal
Calibre - but the lines are a bit bolder.
Is there room in your collection for a refined dive watch that
whispers in your ear with a Cousteau-like French accent? Maybe. If you
find yourself split between wanting to show a little status but also
wanting to stay causal with a sport watch, the Calibre Diver is a
particularly satisfying addition to a range of high-end dive watches
with in-house made movements such as the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain
50 Fathoms. Priced starting from $8,200. ~Ariel Adams
It works using a simple principle: when in "QP" mode you turn the
crown forward in one direction to set the date forward, and the other
direction to set it backwards. There are no individual pushers for each
of the indications, and when you set the calendar the month, day, and
date all move in tandem. Hands-on it is the most viscerally pleasing QP
watch to operate and from a legibility perspective it is hard to beat.
Then again, it does cost rather north of half-a-million dollars for
the privilege. The distinctive Greubel Forsey design houses an included
tourbillon, as well as what many people argue is the most impressive
movement finishing on the planet. Priced at 670,000 Swiss Francs. ~Ariel Adams
By no means a small watch, the new 2014 line of Offshores carries all
the signature cues of the line – thick case made with high-end
materials (including rose gold and ceramics), octagonal bezel, Mega
Tapisserie dial, and integrated bracelet/strap design. New for 2014, are
the addition of a ceramic crown and pushers, as well as a sapphire
display back, long clamored for by collectors.
While the "standard" size 44mm Royal Oak Offshores aren't going
anywhere, this new collection of 42mm models represents and important
shift in thinking from the original name in luxury sports watches, and
is no doubt one of the most significant unveilings of the year. And it's
pretty darn cool looking, too. Priced from $25,600. ~James Lamdin
0 التعليقات:
Post a Comment